How are we all doing? We’re in the final stretch and with that, some of our projects are focused on simplicity but durability. Today we’re sharing an easy way to secure a carrying case that doesn’t require special hardware so that if you don’t have time to find a matching zipper or snaps, you can still make something cool with no extra trips to the store.
First up with an easy closure but a lining is the tablet case. Ours is based off measurements for a full-size iPad but easy enough to adapt to the device specific for your recipient. If you don’t have the device they own (or might be getting) go to the manufacturer’s website for the dimensions. Once you have those dimensions, you can use them to plan out your main panels.
I used more of my hemp denim and waxed canvas (it’s water repellent which helps protect our precious electronic devices) from the knitting roll but here are the materials needed for device case for a device that is 12” or less tall (or wide).
- 1/3 yard exterior fabric (should be home decor, waved canvas, etc.)
- 1/3 yard interior fabric ( can be heavier weight or softer too)
- 1/3 yard batting or fusible fleece (optional if you want the case to be additionally protective.
- Scissors (rotary cutter, mat and ruler ideal)
- Chalk or marking tool
- Thread (coordinating best)
Again, scraps from other projects can work here too, just depends on the device and the aesthetic you’re hoping to accomplish.
First decide if you want the case to hold the device horizontally or vertically, that will determine how you want to orient your design and the flap.
You’ll need two panels from each fabric and the batting for the main case. You’ll also want one flap panel from the exterior and the interior fabric.
Take the dimensions of the device you want to live in the case and add at least two inches to the total dimensions. If you’re concerned about how thick it is and want an easy slide in/easy slide out then add three inches total.
For example, the iPad4 I was using for the sample here is 9.5” tall and 7.3” wide (let’s call it 7.5”). So I cut 11.5” by 9.5” wide panels for vertical or just turn it 90 degrees so that it’s wider than it is tall. Up to you!
So I cut the following:
- Two exterior panels at 11.5” wide by 9.5” tall
- Two interior panels at 11.5” wide by 9.5” tall
- Two batting panels 11” wide by 9” tall (I don’t want them to cause bulk in my seams) *If you use fusible fleece, cut the 10.5” by 8.5” so you can fuse it centered and not in your seam allowances at all
- One exterior flap panel 11.5” wide by 5 to 6 inches (depending your preference)
- One interior flap matching the above dimensions.
- One flap holder/closure strap 11.5” wide by 4” tall
Now that all is cut, you’ll prepare the flap and the closure strap that will hold the flap in place.
Just as we did in the knitting roll, you can round the corners of your flap. Do so by using a plate or other round edge to round the corners (you can tell from the photo that I needed to smooth out the sharp corners before sewing). Mark with chalk and either cut or use for seam allowance guide than cut.
Place prepared flap pieces right sides together and sew, back stitching at beginning and end on three sides, leave top edge open.
Press seams (if you’re using waxed canvas, no ironing), clip rounded corners and then flip right side and reshape edges to smooth, press and then topstitch at a narrow 1/4 inch along the sewn three sides.
For the closure strip – fold in half and then fold in the sides to meet the crease and then fold again so no raw edges are out. Press or use your hands (if waxed canvas) and then edge stitch on both sides for a finished look.
You can baste your batting pieces or if using fusible fleece, fuse it to two of your panels. If using regular batting I just made it part of the sandwich and pinned/clipped well to save time. If you do use fusible fleece, I would do this on the interior so that if you make any puckers or errors, it won’t show on the exterior. If using waxed canvas, don’t fuse to it, fuse to regular fabric. (My goodness, never have used the word fuse that much. Ever.:))
Next assemble the exterior – create a sandwich with one layer batting, one exterior right side up, the flap holder/ closure strip 2.5 inches from top edge, one exterior right side down and then another payer of batting. Pin or clip (wonder clips are amazing for waxed canvas) well then sew the right, bottom and left sides, leaving the top open with a 1/2″ seam allowance.
Clip corners, press open seams and then turn right side out, using a point turner and your hands to reshape and smooth.
Next baste the top raw edge of the flap to the top raw edge of the exterior (make sure it’s the opposite side of the flap holder. Use a long stitch at a 1/4″ seam allowance.
Next, place your two interior panels right sides together and sew the right, bottom and left sides together with a 1/2″ seam allowance, repeating the same steps as above but leave inside out.
Time to line the case!
Place the exterior, right side out, inside the lining, wrong side out. Make sure flap is tucked in as well.
Line up all your top raw edges and pin/clip, marking about a five inch opening on the top front raw edge with chalk or similar.
Sew from opening mark to opening mark in a circle, backstitching twice at beginning and end (this helps when you turn it right side out) with a 1/2″ seam allowance.
Clip threads and press open seams. Again, this is where something like the Clover Iron Finger comes in super handy. Turn right side out and work on reshaping your opening. If you’ve turned it right side out and the flap and flap holder are on the same side don’t freak out. Just turn it inside out and be sure to flip the flap holder over to the other side when you turn it right side out again. Phew!
Pin opening closed then topstitch (lengthen your stitch here) 1/4″ from the top edge of the case. On the flap, use the ditch of your last seam as your edge. Clip threads and done!